Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Across the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

John Sanchez
John Sanchez

Lena is a passionate storyteller and environmental advocate, sharing insights from global travels and research.